Gran Canaria Diaries Day 6: December 8th

With my original route plan changing on day two, avoiding dark skies, the voice inside was telling me to finish what I’d started, so today I headed east towards Agüimes and then on the GC100 to Telde. I’ve been on this road a few times and although it’s not a bad one by any means it’s not one I particularly look forward to riding. After Telde I picked up the GC80 to Santa Brigida. It’s here the ride starts to awaken with roads much more in keeping with previous days. Now, I knew I wasn’t completely mad with my quip about 'Piccolo Italia' yesterday, and a little way along the road I found my proof…

After a very short stretch on the GC15 towards Las Palmas I then jumped on the GC320. For some reason this avenue of trees sticks in my mind. Before the ride I wasn’t 100% sure where it was but now it’s logged for good.

Now onto the GC310 and I was having a little déjàvu from a ride I did many years ago from Cap d' Ail to San Remo. As I say, it was a long time ago so is probably nothing like it in reality but the roads and coastal views triggered something inside. I was enjoying gazing out to sea so much that when I reached Tenoya, the furthest point north I’d get to, I realised that conditions inland were looking rather hostile. The clouds had banked up all around the centre of the island which, for the first time this week, gave me a slightly uneasy feeling. I had around 4.5 hours on the clock and there really was only one way back, straight up and over. Quite fittingly I was heading towards Teror on the GC43, wondering if it was going to live up to its name by dishing out my first battering of the week. Of course, I’d been far too cocky so far, what with the idyllic conditions I’d had, so if it did decide to get nasty then I’d have probably deserved it. Strangely my apprehension turned to excitement. Here I was, as far away from the apartment as I can get, with some good hours in the legs and I’m heading into angry skies. The roads seemed deserted, anything can happen, and knowing there’s only one person that can get me back is what gave the buzz. The uncertainty, the solitude, the road ahead. It was all mine for the taking.

At 660m I was still quite a bit below the cloud line. By 900m I was completely submerged with almost zero visibility. To my surprise I found this inspiring. Breathing in the cold moisture from the clouds felt like it was expanding my lungs and giving me more life. The view in my mind was one of the best ever, but for my eyes it was far from it. Pure nothingness in all directions. Passing through one of the small villages my attention was drawn towards a potent smell. I couldn’t work out quite where it was coming from until I caught a vehicle with a trailer full of goats. I didn't see exactly what make it was, but by the stench I figured it was definitely a “Hummer” (Gran Canaria syle!)

Still shrouded in mist and cloud, I was now on the GC42 towards Vega San Mateo and ready to pick up the GC400 that cuts through in the direction of Cruz Tejda. After climbing for a couple of hours from the coast, the GC400 is a tough road. Narrow with sharp gradients and on this day it had a monotone complexion to it. I wasn’t expecting anything different but as I rounded the final bend before joining the GC230 everything changed in a heartbeat. The sky was piercing blue, sun shining brightly through the trees and cascading shards of light onto the road. Was this a dream? Had I blown up or just been born again? Where were the angels? It was truly magnificent.

I remained above the cloud past Cruz Tejeda and onto the GC15 which was absolutely incredible. As you know, the final two kilometers of this road are insane. The conditions for the descent were perfect, allowing me to carve the slope as fast as possible. With about 600m to go there’s a small bump that you really have to pay attention to. If you don’t know it’s there and hit it at full speed you’ll almost certainly be smeared all over the road at 80kph. The only way to ride it cleanly is to pre hop the bump just at the right moment. With the gradient and speed that you’re carrying, it’s only when you’re airborne that you realise just how quick you’re going.

Unfortunately I didn’t spend long above the cloud line as the GC60 was engulfed in thick fog for much of its length. With the undulations of the road I was initially dipping above and then below the cloud with a surreal feeling of what dolphins must experience as they jump in and out of the sea. It was only after Cruz de Tamigada that I started my final descent to the depths of the ocean. Spiraling through cloud into darkness really gave a familiar road a very unfamiliar feel to it, each section demanding more concentration than ever before. As I rolled through town I reflected on the day’s ride and realised that I really couldn’t have asked for more. Starting at first light and finishing in the dark, angels and demons all the way. Love it!

Ride Stats: 3,700m elevation/113 miles

For Day 6 GPS info click here